Style Study: 5 Labels You Should Know From NYFW Fall/Winter ’14

It’s definitely been a long time since I wrote about fashion week. I used to do that every single seasons back on my Tumblr heydays, but on the recent years, I even barely pay any attention anymore to my favorite labels like Proenza Schouler, Rodarte, Alexander Wang, etc. I’ve lost track about their recent collections, let alone knowing the who’s who in the industry nowadays. Today, I woke up feeling nostalgic about my past endeavor as Fashion Week reviewer and how I’ve been dreaming to actually attend the shows someday so I decide to skimming most of the New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014 shows, and in the process, I educated myself about some of the most interesting new labels, fresh designers, and probably the new fashion It Kids. Here’s my short list:

Public School: Maxwell Osborne (left) & Da0-Yi Chow (right)
Public School: Maxwell Osborne (left) & Da0-Yi Chow (right)

PUBLIC SCHOOL

Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, the two masterminds behind this NYC-based menswear label, had gain some buzz when they receive the prestigious CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award last year, so its probably not surprising to saw Anna Wintour and her daughter, Bee Shaffer, sitting in the front row of Public School’s first formal show this season. Put the hype aside, they’re proving they’re more than ready to open their school of style to the public. The show was started by Asian male model (hey, that’s unusual) in the monochromatic flannel, jeans, wide hat, and cape. Thanks to American Horror Story: Coven, I’ve been obsessing over wide hat and cape lately, and to see them wore by men, I’m very thrilled even though they probably not taking the reference from the New Orleans witches. Accessorized with scarves underneath the hat, they’re giving an ode to Jewish rabbis in the downtown New York, while the pastoral neck on some pieces hinting a Catholic preacher aesthetic.

PublicSchool

The collection itself is very urban, very New York, very modern. Its like a refined mix of sportwear and tailored suits in neutral hues, with heavy emphasis on their outerwears (cape, jacket, blazer, coat) and for the first time, they also create some women wears that ooze the same relaxing cool vibes as their male counterpart. Like a proper runway debut, they don’t need any gimmicks, they let the clothes speaks for themselves and it’s a big hit. Some people are giving them standing ovation while Mrs. Wintour clapping her approval, and it’s easy to understood. It’s very smart collection and Public School bringing their A-level game to teach us how the cool guys and girls should wear in public.

Maria ke Fisherman: Victor Alonso and Maria Lemus
Maria ke Fisherman: Victor Alonso and Maria Lemus

Maria ke Fisherman

Founded by Maria Lemus and Victor Alonso in 2011, the Madrid-based label is well known for their edgy streetwears that combines futuristic design with references from 90’s pop culture. For their New York debut, the duo are not afraid to show their signature colors which includes cotton-candy knitwear, crop tops, tracks pants, platform sneakers, and crochet sweaters. It’s basically “Monsters University mixed with Korean hookers and the way hip-hop singers dressed in the nineties, especially when they went to Aspen to ski,” explains the duo themselves about the daring collection which must be worn with certain kind of self-mocking and humorous attitude.

mariakefisherman

What comes in my mind is Akihabara’s cyberpunk meets hip-hop meets 90’s MTV. The spaghetti-straps denim dress is like straight from Posh Spice’s wardrobe in her Spice World era while combination of black bra and plaid pleats mini skirts looks like a homage to Britney’s Baby One More Time. The fluffy sweaters fully adorned with MkF insignia in pixel bit colors is right on the hook and show us that they’re ready to play.

Calla Haynes and her cho chow, Lilybear.
Calla Haynes and her chow chow, Lilybear.

CALLA

I love when designers have some fascinating story to backing up their new collection. In the Calla Haynes’ mind, her Fall/Winter 2014 collection is about a heartbroken French belle who moves to Nashville in the 60’s and bring along her wide array of cute retro dresses, tweed boyfriend blazer, and belted coats. Mixing a Parisian chic with American girl’s aesthetic such as varsity jacket, pleated skirts, and oversized sweatshirts, Miss Calla staying true to her relaxed luxury which all about young, dreamy yet vibrant feminine looks that could be taken straight from Lula magazine’s fashion spread.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Print is always a biggest forte for the Toronto-born, Paris-based designer who used to work with Olivier Theyskens and Nina Ricci. This season, she based the playful prints from her chow chow pet called Lilybear while bringing some fresh colors like minty ice and strawberry sorbet to the traditionally subdued season.

Katie Gallagher
Katie Gallagher

Katie Gallagher

Talk about witches, Katie Gallagher presumably show us how witches would look like if they’re exist in The Matrix universe at her first proper seated runway presentation. The High Line hotel, with its stained glass windows and fireplace, is a perfect place to showcasing her famous goth overtones collection. Models with their pale skins, slick wet hair, slouchy hair bows, and deep blood lip colors strutting the runway draped with chiffon ornamented jackets, flowing skirts, fluid looking nylon pieces, bare midriffs, and utilitarian coats. 

Katie Gallagher

Consist of nothing but black, vampy red, and a strike of silver fur, its something that girls like Claire Boucher and Fairuza Balk will wear proudly. It’s sleek, mysteriously cool, and sexy just like the designer herself who have Jared Leto as her biggest supporter. While Katie Gallagher is not really a newbie, this season marks another collection that reminds about she’s one of the new bloods to be reckoned.

Hyein Seo
Hyein Seo

Hyein Seo

Halloween comes early this year. The young South Korean designer might still in the middle of pursuing her master degree at Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, but with her New York debut collection called Fear Eats The Soul, she shows no fear whatsoever to have fun in her designs. At the first glance, they might looks very kitsch, especially when you think of Antwerp as her educational background. Antwerp is mainly associated with very avant-garde designers while Seo’s design feels young and dynamic, and will fits in any style hub streets. From Seoul, Paris, London, and of course, New York.

hyein_seo

A mix of 80’s B-movie horror flicks and streetwear, the collection have a gooey-like “FEAR” word emblazoned in almost every pieces from head to toe. From hairpiece, choker, dresses, to faux fur coats with spooky faces that reminds you with the killer from Scream. While honestly it had a bit of reminiscent from Meadham Kirchhoff and early Jeremy Scott, I can’t wait to see what the future hold to Hyein Seo. Fear no more.

FEAR

I must admit it was fun to write about fashion week again and try to predict the next trends. From what I’ve seen, I think we should ready for 90’s revival and sporty urban aesthetic. Until another fashion week!

Style Study: Haryono Setiadi

Adi Setiadi

Di antara deretan label top Australia yang berkiprah di Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (MBFW) Australia tahun ini, terselip satu nama yang terdengar Indonesia, yaitu Haryono Setiadi. Well, it turns out Haryono ‘Adi’ Setiadi sang empunya nama memang seorang desainer Indonesia yang berbasis di Sydney. Dalam gelaran pekan mode tersebut, Adi menampilkan koleksi S/S 13 bertajuk “Visceral” yang terdiri dari luxury sportswear berupa bomber jacket, crop top, dan oversized silhouettes berhiaskan digital print yang terinspirasi dari atom dan molekul. Sleek dan modern, koleksi ini berhasil menarik perhatian editor Vogue yang memasukkannya dalam highlight MBFW musim ini dan beberapa koleksinya pun dipakai Emma Watson di film terbaru Sofia Coppola, The Bling Ring. Ditambah berbagai penghargaan yang telah ia terima dalam kariernya yang masih terbilang baru, he’s definitely one to watch.

Visceral

            “Pada dasarnya saya suka berkarya dengan menggunakan warna dan komposisi, dan saya menggunakan fashion sebagai kanvas untuk berkarya dan menyalurkan kreativitas saya,” ungkap Adi tentang alasannya menekuni fashion. Penyandang gelar Bachelor of Commerce ini awalnya sempat bekerja sebagai finance analyst sebelum kecintaannya kepada warna dan desain mendorongnya untuk terjun ke fashion dengan bekerja langsung pada seorang desainer Jepang, Akira Isogawa. Di bawah asuhan Isogawa, Adi mengembangkan estetika desainnya sendiri untuk akhirnya membuat label pribadinya dengan nama awal An Ode to No One, sebelum berinkarnasi menjadi Haryono Setiadi di tahun 2012. “Saya sangat tertarik dengan teknik membuat baju, konstruksi baju, dan penggunaaan bahan-bahan tertentu untuk menciptakan ‘feeling’ baju tersebut. Inspirasi desain saya selalu berdasarkan evolusi dari koleksi sebelumnya. Walaupun itu sesuatu yang bisa saya improve atau kesalahan-kesalahan yang pernah saya buat. Setiap koleksi, saya selalu berusaha untuk berkembang, menciptakan sesuatu yang baru dan modern, dengan kualitas yang setinggi atau lebih tinggi dari koleksi sebelumnya.”

Visceral2

            Selain main line Haryono Setiadi yang bersifat high end dengan fokus ke tailoring, fabric treatment, dan signature digital/hand craft artwork, Adi juga melansir diffusion line bernama A.D. by Haryono Setiadi untuk pangsa anak muda dengan desain ready-to-wear yang lebih affordable. Saat disinggung apakah ia memiliki rencana untuk membuat menswear, Adi menjawab jika itu adalah salah satu harapannya dan kini ia masih mempelajari teknik-teknik pakaian pria di sela-sela kesibukannya menyiapkan koleksi Autumn/Winter terbaru dan menulis musik di waktu senggangnya (ia sempat menjadi vokalis band di Aussie.) Lebih dari satu dekade meninggalkan Tanah Air, Adi tak lantas melupakan identitasnya. Merepresentasikan Indonesia di kancah internasional menjadi hal yang dibanggakannya dan ia pun membersitkan harapan untuk bisa menggelar show di sini. Melihat kemahiran sartorial dan visinya untuk terus berkembang, I think it’s only a matter of time for him to fly even further.

Haryono setiadi backstage

Backstage photos by Jake Terrey for Vogue Australia