Style Profile: Elleanor Yamaguchi

Jepang boleh saja dipenuhi oleh para fashion blogger dan style icon yang tak terhitung jumlahnya, tapi mencari yang mampu berbahasa Inggris untuk pembaca internasional adalah hal yang lumayan tricky. Erina Elleanor Yamaguchi adalah salah satu dari segelintirnya. Berdarah ¼ Singapura, gadis 21 tahun kelahiran Chigasaki City, Kanagawa, Jepang ini memang sempat tinggal di Singapura selama 8 tahun sebelum kembali ke Tokyo di mana ia kemudian menjadi vlogger untuk kanal YouTube TokyoFashion.com dan menjadi street styler, model, DJ, serta freelance fashion stylist dalam banyak project, termasuk untuk video “Lionhearted” milik Porter Robinson. Seakan tidak pernah puas, ia pun masih mengejar passion-nya yang lain, “Saya mulai mengerjakan segala hal yang saya lakukan sekarang karena cita-cita saya sejak kecil adalah menjadi orang terkenal. Saya selalu ingin menjadi model dan sekarang saya berpikir untuk menjadi vokalis begitu saya bisa mengumpulkan cukup banyak orang untuk membentuk band!”

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Apa definisi personal style kamu?

Saat ini saya lebih memilih pakaian yang jauh lebih simpel daripada yang sebelumnya biasa saya kenakan, mungkin karena saya juga sudah bertambah dewasa. Saya tidak pernah mendeskripsikan gaya saya sendiri, tapi jika harus, saya akan menyebutnya “Elleanor”.

Deskripsi fashion Jepang menurutmu?

Ketika pertama kali tertarik pada fashion, saya menyangka fashion Jepang pada umumnya sangat simpel dan boring tapi Harajuku dipenuhi oleh banyak orang dengan beragam style yang unik dan membuat saya berpikir jika orang-orang bisa mengekspresikan diri mereka lewat fashion. Tapi saat ini, sudah semakin jarang orang-orang yang ingin terlihat “beda” dari orang lain. Beberapa masih memakai pakaian warna-warni tapi mereka terlihat “normal” dan tidak seunik beberapa tahun sebelumnya. Tapi saya masih merasa orang Jepang bisa lebih bebas mengekspresikan diri lewat fashion dibanding negara lain.

Apa yang kamu sukai dari Jepang?

Saya suka makanannya, empat musim yang tidak dimiliki Singapura, dan keamanan di negara ini. Saya pernah ke L.A. dan menyadari betapa mudahnya berpergian di Jepang tanpa harus naik mobil atau taksi. Tokyo’s trains go everywhere!

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Latest obsession/discovery?

Saat ini saya terobsesi Fred Perry dan Dr. Martens! Baru-baru ini saya menonton film This Is England dan saya sangat menyukai fashion di dalamnya. Sekarang saya benar-benar ingin sepasang sepatu basic 3 holed dari Dr. Martens.

What are your biggest passions?
My passions are to spend time alone in my favorite cafe, to drink alcohol with my friends, and to go shopping!

What’s your secret skill?
Hmm…I’m not sure if this is a skill, but I love singing! Karaoke is a really popular place to hang out in Japan.

Who’s your favorite local musician/band?
I can’t choose one, so here I go! I love the singer-songwriter Aiko and the band Judy and Mary and The Yellow Monkey.

Favorite fashion quotes to live by?
“People will stare. Make it worth their while.” – Harry Winston
I found this on the internet and was struck by.

Style tip?

Saya tidak pernah punya tips apapun, saya hanya mencoba gaya apapun yang ingin saya coba and let’s see if it works out!

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Style Study: 5 Labels You Should Know From NYFW Fall/Winter ’14

It’s definitely been a long time since I wrote about fashion week. I used to do that every single seasons back on my Tumblr heydays, but on the recent years, I even barely pay any attention anymore to my favorite labels like Proenza Schouler, Rodarte, Alexander Wang, etc. I’ve lost track about their recent collections, let alone knowing the who’s who in the industry nowadays. Today, I woke up feeling nostalgic about my past endeavor as Fashion Week reviewer and how I’ve been dreaming to actually attend the shows someday so I decide to skimming most of the New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014 shows, and in the process, I educated myself about some of the most interesting new labels, fresh designers, and probably the new fashion It Kids. Here’s my short list:

Public School: Maxwell Osborne (left) & Da0-Yi Chow (right)
Public School: Maxwell Osborne (left) & Da0-Yi Chow (right)

PUBLIC SCHOOL

Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, the two masterminds behind this NYC-based menswear label, had gain some buzz when they receive the prestigious CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award last year, so its probably not surprising to saw Anna Wintour and her daughter, Bee Shaffer, sitting in the front row of Public School’s first formal show this season. Put the hype aside, they’re proving they’re more than ready to open their school of style to the public. The show was started by Asian male model (hey, that’s unusual) in the monochromatic flannel, jeans, wide hat, and cape. Thanks to American Horror Story: Coven, I’ve been obsessing over wide hat and cape lately, and to see them wore by men, I’m very thrilled even though they probably not taking the reference from the New Orleans witches. Accessorized with scarves underneath the hat, they’re giving an ode to Jewish rabbis in the downtown New York, while the pastoral neck on some pieces hinting a Catholic preacher aesthetic.

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The collection itself is very urban, very New York, very modern. Its like a refined mix of sportwear and tailored suits in neutral hues, with heavy emphasis on their outerwears (cape, jacket, blazer, coat) and for the first time, they also create some women wears that ooze the same relaxing cool vibes as their male counterpart. Like a proper runway debut, they don’t need any gimmicks, they let the clothes speaks for themselves and it’s a big hit. Some people are giving them standing ovation while Mrs. Wintour clapping her approval, and it’s easy to understood. It’s very smart collection and Public School bringing their A-level game to teach us how the cool guys and girls should wear in public.

Maria ke Fisherman: Victor Alonso and Maria Lemus
Maria ke Fisherman: Victor Alonso and Maria Lemus

Maria ke Fisherman

Founded by Maria Lemus and Victor Alonso in 2011, the Madrid-based label is well known for their edgy streetwears that combines futuristic design with references from 90’s pop culture. For their New York debut, the duo are not afraid to show their signature colors which includes cotton-candy knitwear, crop tops, tracks pants, platform sneakers, and crochet sweaters. It’s basically “Monsters University mixed with Korean hookers and the way hip-hop singers dressed in the nineties, especially when they went to Aspen to ski,” explains the duo themselves about the daring collection which must be worn with certain kind of self-mocking and humorous attitude.

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What comes in my mind is Akihabara’s cyberpunk meets hip-hop meets 90’s MTV. The spaghetti-straps denim dress is like straight from Posh Spice’s wardrobe in her Spice World era while combination of black bra and plaid pleats mini skirts looks like a homage to Britney’s Baby One More Time. The fluffy sweaters fully adorned with MkF insignia in pixel bit colors is right on the hook and show us that they’re ready to play.

Calla Haynes and her cho chow, Lilybear.
Calla Haynes and her chow chow, Lilybear.

CALLA

I love when designers have some fascinating story to backing up their new collection. In the Calla Haynes’ mind, her Fall/Winter 2014 collection is about a heartbroken French belle who moves to Nashville in the 60’s and bring along her wide array of cute retro dresses, tweed boyfriend blazer, and belted coats. Mixing a Parisian chic with American girl’s aesthetic such as varsity jacket, pleated skirts, and oversized sweatshirts, Miss Calla staying true to her relaxed luxury which all about young, dreamy yet vibrant feminine looks that could be taken straight from Lula magazine’s fashion spread.

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Print is always a biggest forte for the Toronto-born, Paris-based designer who used to work with Olivier Theyskens and Nina Ricci. This season, she based the playful prints from her chow chow pet called Lilybear while bringing some fresh colors like minty ice and strawberry sorbet to the traditionally subdued season.

Katie Gallagher
Katie Gallagher

Katie Gallagher

Talk about witches, Katie Gallagher presumably show us how witches would look like if they’re exist in The Matrix universe at her first proper seated runway presentation. The High Line hotel, with its stained glass windows and fireplace, is a perfect place to showcasing her famous goth overtones collection. Models with their pale skins, slick wet hair, slouchy hair bows, and deep blood lip colors strutting the runway draped with chiffon ornamented jackets, flowing skirts, fluid looking nylon pieces, bare midriffs, and utilitarian coats. 

Katie Gallagher

Consist of nothing but black, vampy red, and a strike of silver fur, its something that girls like Claire Boucher and Fairuza Balk will wear proudly. It’s sleek, mysteriously cool, and sexy just like the designer herself who have Jared Leto as her biggest supporter. While Katie Gallagher is not really a newbie, this season marks another collection that reminds about she’s one of the new bloods to be reckoned.

Hyein Seo
Hyein Seo

Hyein Seo

Halloween comes early this year. The young South Korean designer might still in the middle of pursuing her master degree at Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, but with her New York debut collection called Fear Eats The Soul, she shows no fear whatsoever to have fun in her designs. At the first glance, they might looks very kitsch, especially when you think of Antwerp as her educational background. Antwerp is mainly associated with very avant-garde designers while Seo’s design feels young and dynamic, and will fits in any style hub streets. From Seoul, Paris, London, and of course, New York.

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A mix of 80’s B-movie horror flicks and streetwear, the collection have a gooey-like “FEAR” word emblazoned in almost every pieces from head to toe. From hairpiece, choker, dresses, to faux fur coats with spooky faces that reminds you with the killer from Scream. While honestly it had a bit of reminiscent from Meadham Kirchhoff and early Jeremy Scott, I can’t wait to see what the future hold to Hyein Seo. Fear no more.

FEAR

I must admit it was fun to write about fashion week again and try to predict the next trends. From what I’ve seen, I think we should ready for 90’s revival and sporty urban aesthetic. Until another fashion week!

Style Study: Haryono Setiadi

Adi Setiadi

Di antara deretan label top Australia yang berkiprah di Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (MBFW) Australia tahun ini, terselip satu nama yang terdengar Indonesia, yaitu Haryono Setiadi. Well, it turns out Haryono ‘Adi’ Setiadi sang empunya nama memang seorang desainer Indonesia yang berbasis di Sydney. Dalam gelaran pekan mode tersebut, Adi menampilkan koleksi S/S 13 bertajuk “Visceral” yang terdiri dari luxury sportswear berupa bomber jacket, crop top, dan oversized silhouettes berhiaskan digital print yang terinspirasi dari atom dan molekul. Sleek dan modern, koleksi ini berhasil menarik perhatian editor Vogue yang memasukkannya dalam highlight MBFW musim ini dan beberapa koleksinya pun dipakai Emma Watson di film terbaru Sofia Coppola, The Bling Ring. Ditambah berbagai penghargaan yang telah ia terima dalam kariernya yang masih terbilang baru, he’s definitely one to watch.

Visceral

            “Pada dasarnya saya suka berkarya dengan menggunakan warna dan komposisi, dan saya menggunakan fashion sebagai kanvas untuk berkarya dan menyalurkan kreativitas saya,” ungkap Adi tentang alasannya menekuni fashion. Penyandang gelar Bachelor of Commerce ini awalnya sempat bekerja sebagai finance analyst sebelum kecintaannya kepada warna dan desain mendorongnya untuk terjun ke fashion dengan bekerja langsung pada seorang desainer Jepang, Akira Isogawa. Di bawah asuhan Isogawa, Adi mengembangkan estetika desainnya sendiri untuk akhirnya membuat label pribadinya dengan nama awal An Ode to No One, sebelum berinkarnasi menjadi Haryono Setiadi di tahun 2012. “Saya sangat tertarik dengan teknik membuat baju, konstruksi baju, dan penggunaaan bahan-bahan tertentu untuk menciptakan ‘feeling’ baju tersebut. Inspirasi desain saya selalu berdasarkan evolusi dari koleksi sebelumnya. Walaupun itu sesuatu yang bisa saya improve atau kesalahan-kesalahan yang pernah saya buat. Setiap koleksi, saya selalu berusaha untuk berkembang, menciptakan sesuatu yang baru dan modern, dengan kualitas yang setinggi atau lebih tinggi dari koleksi sebelumnya.”

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            Selain main line Haryono Setiadi yang bersifat high end dengan fokus ke tailoring, fabric treatment, dan signature digital/hand craft artwork, Adi juga melansir diffusion line bernama A.D. by Haryono Setiadi untuk pangsa anak muda dengan desain ready-to-wear yang lebih affordable. Saat disinggung apakah ia memiliki rencana untuk membuat menswear, Adi menjawab jika itu adalah salah satu harapannya dan kini ia masih mempelajari teknik-teknik pakaian pria di sela-sela kesibukannya menyiapkan koleksi Autumn/Winter terbaru dan menulis musik di waktu senggangnya (ia sempat menjadi vokalis band di Aussie.) Lebih dari satu dekade meninggalkan Tanah Air, Adi tak lantas melupakan identitasnya. Merepresentasikan Indonesia di kancah internasional menjadi hal yang dibanggakannya dan ia pun membersitkan harapan untuk bisa menggelar show di sini. Melihat kemahiran sartorial dan visinya untuk terus berkembang, I think it’s only a matter of time for him to fly even further.

Haryono setiadi backstage

Backstage photos by Jake Terrey for Vogue Australia

The Style Icon Series by Emma Block

emmablock

Hi, my name is Emma Block and I'm an illustrator living in London.

I have always wanted to be an artist since I was about 10, 
when I was 17 I realised I could make a living as an illustrator.
I feel so incredibly lucky that most of the time my job involves drawing all day.

I live in London and I find it am incredibly inspiring place to live. 
There are so many wonderful art galleries and museums in the city; 
there is always an exhibition to go see, plus lovely parks and markets.
audrey hepburn style icon hi res

My work is very mixed media, and I think it has a slightly nostalgic quality to it. 
I use cut paper, gouache, coloured pencil and ink.
I am very inspired by vintage films and vintage fashion.
jean seberg hi resWhen I had just had my hair cut short Jean Seberg was a big inspiration for me. 
I loved her look in Breathless, 
so I did a little illustration of her, highlighting all the things I liked about her style.
 People really liked it, so that's how my Style Icon series started.twiggy hi res
There are lots more style icons I’m planning on illustrating when I get the time!
 I would love to illustrate Anna Karina, Mia Farrow, Jane Birkin and so many others!

For me Audrey Hepburn is the ultimate style icon.
 When I can't think of what to wear in the morning I think 'what would Audrey wear?'
 She managed to make really ordinary items
 like a white shirt or a black polo neck look amazing.

My own style is quite inspired by the 60s. 
I wear a lot of button up shirts, cropped trousers, trench coats, dresses and striped t-shirts.
 My style is kind of feminine and classic.

brigitte bardo hi res

I like listen to music a lot when I work.
 At the moment I am listening to a lot Francois Hardy 
(she's on my list of style icons to illustrate)
 and Joni Mitchell, as well as 1930s jazz.

I’m currently producing work for a very exciting exhibition,
 taking place next month, which takes the circus as its inspiration.
  I am enjoying drawing lots of circus ladies on the trapeze and dancing with tigers.

The next thing for me would be to write and illustrate my own children’s book!

edie hi res                                          http://emmablock.co.uk/

The Morning Bender, A Report of Nikicio F/W 2013 Morning Presentation.

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Tak pernah ada istilah terlalu pagi untuk menikmati suguhan fashion yang berkelas, Nina Nikicio membuktikannya lagi dalam morning presentation Nikicio Fall/Winter 13/14. 

For instance, mungkin di skena mode Indonesia saat ini baru Nina Nikicio seorang yang punya nyali dan loyal fans untuk menggelar fashion show di pagi hari untuk keduakalinya sejak presentasi Nikicio Mixte Spring/Summer dua tahun lalu. Dan seperti show sebelumnya itu, kali ini pun Nina mengemasnya menjadi suatu event yang membuatmu rela bangun lebih pagi di akhir pekan. Untuk show yang diadakan Sabtu 26 Juni lalu, Nina memilih Colony di area Kemang Raya sebagai venue, di mana setiap invitee akan diantar oleh para usher menaiki elevator ke lantai 6 gedung tersebut, dan begitu keluar pintu lift, mereka akan langsung melihat sebuah space kosong yang sudah dihiasi jejeran kursi putih, dan jendela-jendela lebar di setiap sisi yang membiarkan cahaya pagi menghangatkan area berwarna abu-abu tersebut. Mengingatkan seperti sebuah loft di downtown New York, and fits Nikicio’s DNA so well, I must say.

Tak berapa lama setelah saya menikmati breakfast at a jar dan orange juice dalam botol yang disediakan di setiap kursi, show pun dimulai. Seorang model Kaukasia berjalan santai dengan turtleneck abu-abu dan blazer wool berwarna sama yang dipadukan dengan pajama pants dari material Habutai (garmen sutra yang sangat ringan) dengan print foto scenery pegunungan. Print yang sama menjadi kunci utama dalam keseluruhan koleksi ini dan muncul dalam berbagai inkarnasi, mulai dari oversized jacket, celana pendek, sleeve dress, blazer, hingga bra. “It was from one of my favorite holiday in New Zealand. Probably in 2009. I remember the scenery was so beautiful it took my breath away. And I remember saying grace, just being thankful at that moment. It’s very personal really and such a humbling experience,” ungkap Nina, menjawab pertanyaan saya tentang print tersebut. Selain print pegunungan tersebut, print lain yang juga muncul adalah guratan bangau putih yang terinspirasi dari kain Cina yang pernah Nina lihat di rumah neneknya. Jelas, Nina ingin bermain dengan kenangan personalnya di koleksi terbarunya ini.

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Put the prints aside, koleksi F/W 13 ini tetap mengiaskan apa yang menjadi pakem label ini, which is smart cutting and minimalism beauty. Knitted sweater, moto jacket, bolero, kemeja sifon, dan maxi skirt berpadu tanpa cela dengan aksesori pendukung seperti beanie, topi snap back, slip on sandal, serta clutch dari material Nubuck yang lembut dan kuat di saat yang sama. Terselip juga beberapa muscle tank dengan tulisan “Grumpy”, “Hungry”, “Thirsty”, dan “Sleepy”, saya bertanya iseng ke Nina, “So, which one are you in the morning?” Nina yang kala itu mengenakan muscle tank hitam bertuliskan “Sleepy” menjawab sambil tertawa, “Hahaha! I like to inject humor to every collection I make. Grumpy, hungry, thirsty, and sleepy are feelings that easily relatable to anyone, it transcends gender. But then again, I basically just want to have a little fun,” tukasnya dengan tersenyum.

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Sebagai kesimpulan, 24 looks yang disajikan dalam morning presentation ini bisa dibilang menjadi sebuah goodbye notes manis dari Nina untuk sementara waktu kepada fashion crowd Indonesia. Saat kamu membaca artikel ini, ia telah berada di Melbourne untuk melanjutkan studi Fashion & Textile Merchandising di RMIT University, sebuah hal yang menunjukkan komitmennya untuk terus membawa diri ke level selanjutnya dan tak berhenti di satu titik. “Life is all about learning anyway isn’t it?” pungkasnya. Couldn’t agree more with that.

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As published in NYLON Indonesia July 2013

All photos by Sanko Yannarotama

Style Study: Moo Piyasombatkul

Moo

Hello Moo, how are you? Would you mind to tell us about yourself and what are you doing?

Hello! Technically I’m a jewellery designer as I did BA Jewellery Design at Central Saint Martins in London.

When did you first know you wanted to design eyewear?

I did an eyewear collection as my graduation project… and that was my starting point of my eyewear series. Although I didn’t plan to sell my collection nor starting as a brand. Mrs. B, a founder of Browns (in London) gave me an amazing opportunity to sell my graduate collection at the shop, which was such an amazing exposure. I can’t thank Browns enough.

Can you tell us about your training?

During my 3 years at Central Saint Martins, I was trained as a maker, a designer, and a thinker. All of my tutors, technicians and classmates gave me the best 3 years of my life. It was a turning point for me. I had time and supports from these people, guiding me to look, analyse and evaluate. I open up more to possibilities. A piece of jewellery doesn’t have to be made from precious metal or be worn as earring nor necklaces. Jewellery can be anything that relates to body. It’s a body adornment. It can be made from any kind of materials, as long as it helps translating the concept of the work. So this is gives me no limit to what I can do.

Day Dream

Where did you grow up and how does it influence your work in any way?

I grew up in 2 cultures; Thai and British. My parents sent me studying in UK since I was 12, but I come back home (Bangkok) every holiday. Traveling has been a big part since, and it became my influence because I got to travel to other cities in Asia, Europe and America. I got to see varieties of diversity, people and cultures. Then I began to know what I like and I then tend to go back to those places or doing more research on them. Traveling always involves hotels and restaurants (I love eating 🙂 ), so I got lots of inspirations from interiors, furnitures and the atmosphere. This is my initial  theme for most of my works.

Your eyewear already worn by Lady Gaga and Fan Bing Bing, how do you feel about it and personally, who do you design for?

It’s beyond amazing because they are both well dressed ladies whose styles I love. They picked my work themselves, which I even felt more special and it really motivates me to keep producing greater designs.

How would you describe your aesthetic?

My work and the way I dress are similar; proportionally balanced. I don’t overload things on myself or on my work.

Desire

If you can collaborate with any person in the world, who will you choose and why?

Karl Lagerfeld for CHANEL or Alber Elbaz for LANVIN. I love these labels and their clothes are very well cut. It’s a classic with a twist, similar to the way I work. I’m a big fan.

Tell us a little bit about your latest collection, what’s the main inspiration for it?

I tend to work in series. Developing from one to another because interiors and food are still my main influences. So let’s wait and see what’s next!

What is your personal favorite from the collection and why?

I tend to wear a lot of “desire” and ‘bubbly blue” styles from both of my collection because they go pretty well with most of my outfits. However Baroque Eyes collection is my most proudly present because it’s my first collection and it’s what made people recognise my brand. So it has become a classic collection which I’m still selling.

Bubbly

Do you think that you will always make eyewear? 

We’ll see…

For now, your eyewear is sold exclusively in Browns, OC, and HP France, got plans to sold it elsewhere?

I started selling in Hong Kong, Middle East and Romania and other main cities, but of course I want to sell my brand globally. Let’s see where next!

What do you hope for the future? 

Doing my best today and hopefully greater things to offer. More MOO ^oo^

MOO Eyewear Facebook